I love Mexican food. Always have. In fact, I crave it. But I have become disillusioned by Northern California Mexican Restaurants. Maybe because there are so many of them. And maybe because I am guilty of judging each I visit to the former Cinco De Mayo Restaurant on Spring Street in lower Manhattan. As a young man I dined there often as I could, and for the first time experienced authentic mole pablano, delicate cactus salads, and fresh salsa made in front of my eyes. The cooks even wore tall white hats there, a crown of honor and respect for a chef, they were proud of their steamy and sizzling dishes served in clay bowls or on clay plates. I never appreciated guacamole or onions or peppers or even tequila, for the matter, until I had my belly full at Cinco De Mayo Restaurant.
Since, two score and five years have passed, and I have traveled country likely 40 states in all and I had not been able to find a Mexican eatery that suited by pallet as Cinco De Mayo did. That is, I am happy to report, until last month. It was a calm September afternoon and I was traveling though Vallejo, CA, on my way to a Wine Tasting in Napa when suddenly I had to relieve myself (hey, you want an honest review, right?) so I pull off I-29 and head along Sonoma Boulevard and end up making a left turn onto Redwood Street. Next thing I see is the "Margaritas" sign. Sweet.
The parking lot had several cars but still unusual amount of parking, I thought, for such a convenient location. I noticed first that the restaurant windows where shiny clean. I always notice the windows for some reason. Way I figure a restaurant's windows are like a man's shoes ... says a lot about the man. So do windows especially at a restaurant.
As I scooted in I could hear the Mexican music sounding an enthusiast yet forlorn beat ... cool jukebox ... then a tranquil moment of contemplation, Should I dine here? I am having wine today. The idea was not appealing. As I departed the men's room I decided it was only proper to check out the bar to the right and rear (the facilities were located nicely between the restaurant to the front and bar/nightclub in the back).
The tequila selection quickly earned my attention. Gran Centenario Plata, Don Julio Silver (the must have go to drink for those who appreciate the best value in a steel cast aged tequila), El Tesoro, Sauza Conmemorativo, and all the Patron varieties. There were over 50 tequila's in all ... my day in Napa was now clearly doomed. I summoned all my power to try move toward the door but my legs would not obey my head, my stomach was now in control, I was hit by the familiar scent of slow simmered pork in chile verde sauce ... the waiter held the carrier plate over his shoulder and wisped past me, my 6'3" frame enabled me to see the colorful display of of neatly arranged plates, one that looked particularly plain and curious. I took a seat center of the bar. Maybe I would go to a movie after lunch. A menu was conveniently placed in front of me. A stocky bald headed fellow introduced himself as Manny, explained per my inquisition the hardy dish was Carnitas Uruapan, the chef's favorite. "Big juicy and tender chunks of pork slowly infused for one hour with orange," Manny went on, "wonderful slow cooked pork chucks you can cut with a spoon ... I enjoy and savor the meat flavor in a corn or flour tortilla, and I lace it with our carefully spiced simmered beans and steamed yellow rice, a mild pablano pepper, and medium-hot picante sauce." "Son of a ... " I thought, " ... he had me at 'juicy and tender'."
The disappointment of not going wine tasting was short lived after my entree arrived. It was everything and more Manny indicated it would be. "How could the portions be so big, I thought, for just $9.95?"
The juke box kept on going ... not understanding Spanish the lyrics left me guessing how pretty that senorita must be singing ... she sure sounded pretty. It's amazing, really, the outlook one tequila places upon the soul. I surprised myself and devoured the entire entree. I could not resist. Pork, I believe, more than chicken or steak can vary in flavor ... and that was one fine tasting pig, I thought.
Not since the Cinco de Mayo days in New York City had I been so satisfied with an authentic cooked Mexican meal! Sombreros off to Margaritas Restaurant in Vallejo!
Now, I continue my life's mission of finding the perfect Mole Pablano sauce! Until then ... adios amigo.
RATING: FOUR STARS